Culture Shock

I've been silent for quite some time, but I've decided to start blogging again. Let's just say I became a bit overwhelmed by the intensity of the experience here. It is something that happens to a lot of "expats" who come here. The phenomena is well-known, and commonly referred to as culture shock.

After some time (usually around three months, depending on the individual), differences between the old and new culture become apparent and may create anxiety. Excitement may eventually give way to unpleasant feelings of frustration and anger as one continues to experience unfavorable events that may be perceived as strange and offensive to one's cultural attitude. Language barriers, stark differences in public hygiene, traffic safety, food accessibility and quality may heighten the sense of disconnection from the surroundings.

Before coming to Doha, I had not traveled outside of the continental United States. A bit of Internet research suggests that's not so unusual. As few as 5% of Americans choose to travel overseas, and the Arabian peninsula is hardly seen as a recreation destination, perhaps with the exception of Dubai.

Qatar's population is about 1.8 million, of whom 80% are expatriates. More than one million are construction and service workers from India, Nepal, Philippines, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. Many of the technical/professional jobs are held by about 50,000 Brits, Australians, and Americans.

I've now been in Qatar for nine months. My last post was in January, so a lot has transpired during that time.

At work my project management team moved to a new office, and will soon move once again to the construction site 15 kilometers South of Doha. In April I returned to the U.S. for a two week visit with family, friends and former colleagues. Upon my return, I left my shared apartment in West Bay and spent 5 weeks in the Al Saad neighborhood of Doha. Currently, I am staying again in West Bay, house/dog-sitting for my Project Director, who is on holiday in the States.

West Bay from the 25th Floor

To continue this blog means I will be writing about all aspects of my culture-shocked expat experience. When I try to describe what it is like here, the most fitting term is "surreal".

Museum of Islamic Art

Designed by world-renowned architect I.M. Pei, the Museum of Islamic Art is an architectural masterpiece rising from the sea off Doha’s Corniche.

Completed in 2008, the stone-clad museum is composed of a five-story main building and a two-story education wing connected by a central courtyard. Inspired by the geometric patterns and aesthetic details found in the art and architecture of the Muslim world, it is an iconic structure that bridges the ancient and modern world.

The Museum is composed of two cream colored limestone buildings, a five-story main building and a two-story Education Wing, connected across a central courtyard.

The main building's angular volumes step back as they rise around a 5-story high domed atrium, concealed from outside view by the walls of a central tower. An oculus, at the top of the atrium, captures and reflects patterned light within the faceted dome.

On the north side of the Museum a 45 meter tall glass curtain wall, the only major window, offers panoramic views of the Gulf and West Bay area of Doha from all five floors of the atrium.

The museum houses a collection of works gathered since the late 1980s, including manuscripts, textiles and ceramics, spanning from the 7th to the 19th century. It is one of the world’s most complete collections of Islamic artifacts, with items originating in Spain, Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Turkey, India, and Central Asia.

Work Life

Al Bida Tower

My day starts at five-thirty a.m. Shower, breakfast, then I chat with my wife using Google+ video. I don't have a car and I don't intend to drive here, at least in the near future. Taxis are everywhere in Doha, but not that reliable as far as scheduled rides. During my second week here I made arrangements with a private car service. A driver picks me up every morning at 7:15 for the short ride to the office. The morning commute is chaotic. It seems like everyone is going the same way at the same time, and traffic is further complicated but the continuous construction and roadway improvements.

I work in the forty-two story Al Bida Tower. Just another example of the amazing high-rise architecture here in Doha. It is all glass curtain wall exterior formed with triangular panels which cover a triangular lattice of steel tubes. That basic form is twisted clockwise from the base, with several offsets around the circumference. The central core is constructed of concrete, of course, with two banks of elevators; low-rise (floors 1-19) and high-rise (20-40).

There's an interesting difference between buildings here and in the States. The floor numbered "1" is not the ground floor; same with the mezzanine. Those are floors "G" and "M". So the building is actually forty-two floors. I'm told that this is commonplace everywhere but in the U.S. There is one floor of parking below-grade, but most occupants park in a six-level structure adjacent to the building.

It is a secure building, just like many in downtown Los Angeles. I wear a badge with an embedded chip, which must be swiped over a reader to access the elevators and to unlock the office entry door. The swiping is required to enter and exit. This building is the home of the Qatar 2022 Supreme Committee, and every floor I've been on has the same access control. Some floors are not yet occupied, and there are construction workers busy on those levels.

Just the same as at the Movenpick and at City Center, the service level is very pronounced. The building has uniformed attendants who constantly clean the lobbies and restrooms. Another group of attendants stand by in the kitchen, and they actually serve coffee, tea and other beverages on demand. They frequently walk the floor to pick up empty cups and take refill requests. I must say that it is a delight to ask for and receive a double espresso every afternoon around three.

Coffee Time

One of the limitations of working in the West Bay is that there are not many options for lunch. Some people bring food from home, as I have done almost every day since I left the hotel. Aside from that, in an adjacent building, there is a shop called "Coffee Time" which serves sandwiches and also an 'executive lunch' - meat, rice vegetables, and water - for 26 rials. That's about ten bucks USD.

Monoprix

There is also a grocery market called Monoprix (a French retail chain) which also serves sandwiches and pizza. Both of these places have limited seating capacity, and quickly fill up at lunchtime. Many people bring their lunch back to the office. Lately when I bring my home made lunch, I walk outside, across the street and sit on the sea wall that surrounds the bay.

I work with a team of sixteen other professionals, mainly from the U.K. and Scotland. We are the Project Managers for a large development related to the 2022 FIFA World Cup. Our project director is an American, like me. Each team member is an expert is his particular discipline. It is a very impressive group overall. I count all of them as friends. To them, I am the "BIM Guru", and my opinion and experience is respected and valued. It is a very satisfying situation. We share the floor with a few workers from the project's architect, whose main office is located in the U.K. Most of the floor is occupied by the client and their Project Management Consultant. Everyone works interdependently.

At the end of the day, my driver, or one of his colleagues is usually waiting when I exit the building. Another short ride back to the apartment. It is less than one mile, I could and I have walked on certain occasions, since the weather has cooled down.

That is my work day. Today is the beginning of my eleventh week in Qatar.

Soccer Victory

My grandson has played soccer for six years, starting with the "K" division.
He scored the tying goal in the championship game with 30 seconds to go.
His team, the "Bloodhounds" won in a shootout.

This is one of the "costs" of choosing to work here.

There is no value than can be placed on being separated from this.

Doha Rain

On Sunday it rained here in Doha.

The average precipitation for November is 3.3mm (0.13 inches).

The average yearly precipitation is 75mm (3 inches).

Nonetheless, the rain started after I arrived at my office. I went out after lunchtime and took these snapshots.

Later in the evening there was a fairly decent shower, lasting about fifteen minutes.

The total accumulation was apparently too small to record.

But it did rain. More rain is in the forecast.

Movenpick

I have just moved from my first home in Doha, the 5 Star Movenpick Tower in West Bay. I spent 3 nights at the Concorde, which was also very nice, but I will long remember the level of service and the hospitality which I was shown, and which was so beneficial in my adjustment to being so far away from home.

The arrangements were made by the company's housing coordinator. The change was prompted by the very long commute that I experienced on my second day on the job. That was due to major construction all along the Corniche, which has since been completed. It was the decision of our project director, and I believe it was a bit more expensive, but his preference for me to be closer to our office in West Bay was the deciding factor, I am certain.

Movenpick is a Swiss hotel & resort chain. They have another older facility downtown, but the newer one is completely modern and marvelously appointed. Some may be familiar with this lifestyle, but I was not, and was pleasantly surprised when a tall glass of fresh fruit juice was placed on the counter as I signed the forms. It was Wednesday, after my third day on the job. My hastily packed bags were of course brought to my room, but I arrived first. The first thing I noticed, other than the view of the bay, was a plate of fresh fruit on the table behind which a envelope bearing my name in hand lettered script was neatly placed.

The room was wonderfully appointed and spacious. Just inside the door was the luxurious bath and a small kitchenette. I suppose I could have cooked evening meals there, but I did not. King sized bed, armchair, and desk. I spent quite a few evenings and weekends working there, especially during the first two weeks, before I discovered City Center.

Included in the accommodation was a splendid breakfast buffet in the Animato Restaurant, which quickly became my routine. I was there every work day at six-thirty. After a few visits, the hostess learned my name and I was greeted with, "Good morning Mr. Holland". The servers also greeted me with the same cordiality. I became friends with the young chef Mehidi. His station is the omelette bar, and he also became familiar with my preferences, to the point where I would automatically be served without asking. Fruit juice, cereal, coffee, omelette, potatoes, turkey bacon. I always grabbed a piece of fresh fruit and a container of yogurt on my way out.

Another great experience was the laundry service, also paid for by my employer. this may be commonplace to some, but was a new experience for me. Once or twice every week I packed everything into the bags provided and checked off the accompanying form. It was always returned the sane evening - shirts and slacks neatly pressed and everything wrapped up in plastic. A luxurious experience for someone who is used to 'permanent pressed'.

My room was on the eleventh floor - Number 1116. The tower is thirty floors total, with a pool, spa and workout room on the top floor. My room was on the East side, facing the bay. The view was framed by two other marquee hotels. The Four Seasons and of course the Hilton, where I spent a few evenings unwinding at the Zawaya Lounge. Just to the left of this view there is another massive tower under construction.

Everyone at the Movenpick, concierge, housekeeping, doormen and other attendants always greeted me with a smile and the utmost courtesy. As I wrote at the beginning of this post, my stay at Movenpick was very beneficial in the transition and adjustment to living in Doha.

City Center

I am way behind on this blog, having had many interesting experiences during my four weeks in Qatar. The first two were spent fully involved in my new job, while in off hours I stayed close to the hotel. My third week was coincident with the six day long Eid al Adha National holiday, and I was encouraged to venture out.

Not very far from the Movenpick is the fabulous, magnificent City Center shopping mall. Absolutely everyone goes there.  Consequently, it has a very cosmopolitan atmosphere.  And it is huge! There are two or three levels of enclosed parking, but many people arrive by taxi and bus, or park on the street, and all of these enter through a grand staircase which leads directly to level two.

At the top of the stair, across a wide concourse, a circular atrium reveals three additional levels above, and the level below is an indoor ice skating rink, which is currently half covered, with a stage set up on one end for holiday programs. On the three middle levels, two long wings stretch out in opposite directions, with an endless variety of shops, many of which are familiar Western brands. The center of these wings is also open to all three levels, with elevators, escalators and speed ramps connecting everything.

Doha is cosmopolitan, but at the same time feels stratified. People keep to their own kind, which is natural, I suppose. Nationals shop here, along with everyone else. City Center was the first place that I encountered families. Men in their immaculately clean white thobes. Ladies wearing the traditional Muslim Abbaya. All have their heads covered, some with scarves, many with only the eyes showing, and a few with their heads completely shrouded by a transparent black hood. That seemed unusual in the beginning, but now not so much. It is their country, after all.

Many who are not natives are also from other Islamic countries, and they also were the traditional tunics and styles of those lands. There is another group that dress Western style, in jeans and t shirts with American logos and designs. But their language reveals that they are Arabic also.

Another vast group is those from Southeast Asia.  They are Thai, Malay, Cambodian and Philippine. A lot of these hold service oriented jobs. They are the cashiers, the servers, attendants and housekeeping professionals. I hold them in high regard. Everyone I have met has been extremely courteous.

Another distinct group is the workers from India and perhaps Pakistan. They also have service jobs such as taxi drivers, security guards, etc. It is the "expats" who stand out the most here, and among those, Americans are by far the minority.